先說說今年春夏整個秀場最風光的Balenciaga，有人翻譯成巴黎(乳香)世家(釋迦?)等不太時尚的名字，同樣是大師Balenciaga經手到當代設計師Nicholas Ghesquière手上的傳奇品牌，就像John Galliano之於Dior，Nicholas Ghesquière又再次神奇地重寫經典，運用了跑車流暢的線條作為新元素，融入到以立體剪裁聞名的大師手法當中。
Balenciaga當年大作(上圖)和2008 SS一件外套14萬台幣的秀服(下圖)，可以明顯看出新作如何從經典款式中擷取布花與剪裁的設計概念。
同樣取自於經典的還有Balenciaga特有的材質手法，matelassé，來自於法國普羅旺斯的特有織品處理方式，以表面創造出氣泡般立體效果的特殊手法，製造出彷彿內有填充物的豐厚錯覺。而過去Balenciaga常用於單色織品上，呈現出獨特的優雅語言，來到新當家Nicholas Ghesquière的手中，我們可以見到matelassé這種技法，如何變得活躍又更表情豐富的超難度表現！
8 comments:
第一張圖似乎是茶壺裝
最後一張圖好像把皮包穿在身上
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